Proportion and Silhouette

When it comes to feeling good in what you wear, few things are as important as silhouette. 

The term refers to the overall shape that you and your clothing make when all the details of texture and pattern are taken away. 

Many of the goals that we have when we get dressed are related to silhouette. When we use clothing to manipulate our shape, to look bulkier in some areas and slimmer in others, we’re often playing with silhouette. Part of the power of clothing is that it gives us a means to do this. 

Everyone intuitively understands why this matters. Just think of the last time you saw someone wearing something unflattering, like a pair of pants that are too tight, or a jacket that is cropped too short. Perhaps, like me, you’ve been that person once or twice. 

I'll give you an example from my personal experience. 

I recently bought a new sport jacket. After taking time to choose the fabric, color, and stylistic details I was really happy with the result. Part of the reason that I wanted to wear a sport jacket was the masculine shape, emphasizing broad shoulders and a slight narrowing at the waist. 

A few days after getting the jacket, I saw a picture of myself wearing it and a pair of relatively narrow jeans. The effect was the opposite of what I wanted. The shape was overly slight, lacking the solid proportions that I was looking for. Something about the slender shape on the bottom made my whole body look smaller. 

I swapped the jeans for a different pair with a slightly wider, straighter leg. The sense of slightness immediately disappeared and was replaced by an overall impression of balance. This was a huge discovery. Wearing the balanced outfit now feels great. Having learned through trial and error, I have a greater confidence that what I am wearing looks good and achieves the desired shape.

The picture below compares both outfits. The difference is subtle, but the image on the right is the second more balanced outfit. It feels way better to wear.

I think that a couple specific things about this experience are worth noting. 

First, the change from one pair of jeans to another was minor. The most significant difference in fit was an extra inch through the thigh and knee. This minor change made all the difference. The first pair of jeans hugs my thigh. They aren’t tight, but they more or less conform to that part of my leg. The second pair has a small amount of extra fabric that drapes down the leg, adding a little bit of volume. 

Second, it was only after seeing my outfit in a picture that I noticed the issue with proportion, despite having looked in the mirror on the way out the door. There was something about looking at a photo, seeing myself a little bit more from an outside perspective, that gave me an ability to look with more clarity and objectivity. 

For this reason, especially when you are learning, I suggest taking a picture of yourself every once in a while. Try to get a shot from head to toe. It will allow you to look at and analyze your outfit more objectively. It is a little awkward at first, but this kind of intentional practice will lead to choices that quickly become second nature. 

Many things impact the proportion and silhouette of an outfit, including the shape and volume of a jacket and the leg of your pants. More subtle things, like the position of your jacket’s buttoning point or the width of your collar, make a difference too. Next time you look at someone, or yourself, and have an impression that something is off, pay attention a bit longer and see if you can pinpoint the issue.