Find Jeans that Fit: Part I - Rise
There’s no best way for clothing to fit. Fit is a matter of style and preference and is one of the most interesting ways that fashions change over time. Baggy fits from the 90s and slim fits from the 2000s can each be worn well, and appreciated for what they are.
I prefer to think about a “good fit” as being comfortable in what you’re wearing, and achieving a desired look. It means that you paid attention to details, knew what you were looking for and made an informed decision. Taste and competence are stylish.
I see a lot of guys getting this wrong. That is, they don’t look how they think they look, or, more likely, they don’t look how they want to look, but have compromised because it seems like too much effort to troubleshoot the problem. This is unfortunate because fit issues are relatively easy to solve. Doing so can be the difference between looking like a thirteen year old and looking like a put together adult.
No offense to thirteen year olds, by the way. Young people do some of the most creative and stylish things with fashion. But most older guys would look awkward in the same outfits, and are aiming for something different.
This is the first in a two part series on how jeans fit. The goal of the series is to arm readers with basic knowledge about how jeans are constructed, and how the dimensions of a pair of jeans impact the way they sit on your body. These are fit 101 posts. Those looking to dive into some of the more advanced topics in style might want to pursue other posts in the Foundations of Style category.
This series will focus on how to achieve a relatively conventional fit with a medium rise and a bit of room throughout the hips and legs, without looking baggy anywhere. I hope that lessons from this basic fit will be applicable regardless of what style you’re trying to achieve. Part I covers the rise and waist, basically the part of the jeans from the crotch up.
For most of my life I’ve been wearing jeans that sag down my hips. If you add up all the moments of being slightly self conscious about this, or all the micro-adjustments to hoist them back up, this is kind of significant. It’s worth correcting small problems in your life when it will make you feel better, even in a small way, over the course of months and years.
I grew up in the 90s and early 2000s, so sagging jeans were intentional when I was a kid. Upon reflection, that’s probably the reason it took me so long to learn how to find jeans that fit at my waist. When you’re used to wearing jeans low on your hips, it can feel awkward to have them snug higher up on your body.
When jeans sag, there’s an area of excess fabric that bunches below the butt. This is a super common issue, and it’s unflattering if it’s not intentional.
The solution is simple: wear the jeans higher up on the hips, where they are designed to be worn. Hike them up. If you’re dealing with this issue, see if you can solve the problem by adjusting the tightness of your belt so that the pants stay a bit higher on your body as you move around throughout the day. If the top of your hips are narrower than the fullest part of your seat, this will mean tightening your belt a notch or two. It’s amazing how easy it is to fix this problem, and to feel better in your clothing.
If the belt trick works, you’re probably going to want to make a few adjustments when you buy your next pair of jeans so that they fit a bit better, even without the belt. To do this you have to understand rise.
When a brand lists the rise of a pair of jeans they are usually listing the front rise, or the length from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband in the front. You can think of this as the measurement of how high on your waist the jeans are designed to sit.
What you’re looking for is a rise and waist that work well together. The jeans should be snug around the waist and be comfortable in the crotch without a lot of excess fabric.
In my case, I was stuck on the idea that I was a size 33 because that’s what I wore growing up. But those jeans were falling super low on my hips. It’s taken me a while to figure out that I’m actually more like a 31. A lot of jeans will stretch out an inch or two as they wear in, so, for me, buying a size 30 often results in something that fits great after a few wears.
Once you decide where you want your jeans to sit on your hips, it should be pretty straightforward to figure out the rise and waist that allow you to achieve this. Everyone’s body is different and trying on a few pairs is one of the best ways to land on something that works well for you.
Below are a few additional tips and guidelines that might help as you experiment:
Generally a front rise in the range of 9” to 10” is considered low-rise and will sit lower on your hips, closer to the fullest part of your seat. Low rise tends to look relaxed and casual, but can come across as a bit too youthful, especially on older guys. Low rise can also create unflattering proportions, especially if you have shorter legs.
Medium-rise jeans typically have a front rise in the range of 10” to 11.5”, and are designed to sit closer to the top of your hip bones. Medium rise is a good option for a lot of guys. They don’t look too extreme, and tend to create balanced proportions.
Jeans with a rise over 12” are usually considered high-rise and tend to sit closer to your natural waist, closer to your belly button. High rise can be good if you want to elongate your legs. However, they tend to stand out more, and can look dated depending on how they’re worn.
Most brands use vanity sizing, meaning that the sizes listed are smaller than the actual measurement of the garment. A size 33 pair of jeans will likely have an actual waistband measurement closer to 35”. When choosing a pair of jeans, especially when ordering online, try to find the actual garment measurements and compare them to something you already own to get the best fit. This is the same approach discussed in an earlier post on buying used clothing.
Feel free to ask questions, or share tips and lessons learned with us all in the comments.
